That is also outdated advice. McPherson worked hard to attain ecumenical vision of the faith, and while she participated in debates, avoided pitched rhetorical battles that divided so many in Christianity. It is grown for the foliage only and a very pretty vine. Then a long stretch of highway. By also securing a 3. I also wonder if he had to much tread on the tires.
The human body only needs about milligrams of sodium, or about 0. Yet, the average American consumes a whopping 3, milligrams daily while the American Heart Association recommends consuming no more than 1, milligrams of sodium daily to keep your body healthy.
This excess of sodium in our diets is affecting us more than you may realize. August is National Breastfeeding Month and what a perfect time to discuss healthy foods for breastfeeding moms. Happy National Watermelon Day! Yes, there's a whole day dedicated to celebrate this delicious fruit that packs a big nutritional punch!
And, there are SO many ways to enjoy the amazingly nutritious fruit too. Here are my 5 favorite ways to enjoy watermelon in the summertime, beyond the traditional slice of fruit. Mornings are a busy time of day, rushing to and from, and trying to get there on time! Add in breakfast and it seems overwhelming to get it all done.
You already know breakfast is the most important meal of the day, yet so many Americans miss out on this meal.
Missing breakfast can have a domino effect of making unhealthy choices or overeating later on in the day. Diabetes is a global health crisis — reaching far and wide, and impacting nearly every country around the world. They are usually made of hard woods and last a long time. Just cut the pieces from them. You will recycle, help clean up Mother Earth and enjoy a bountiful harvest.
Before sailing the seven seas, I was privileged to be a steward of a 98 acre organic farm in south central Kentucky. Want to try this potato growing concept but what about potato seedlings. Any suggestions for potato starter seeding varities sources etc.
Can you just carve left over potato that came from supermarket allow to dry then plant. Can you start grow inside in say basement then move out doors as weather warms up.
Suggestions on seeding and seed preperation for best results. Store-bought potatoes have been treated with a growth inhibitor to keep them from sprouting. The absence of this inhibitor is what makes seed potatoes seed potatoes. I use organic potatoes from the store for my crops. In fact, if you leave an organic potato in the mesh bags they come in, they will all begin to sprout within 30 days.
My red potatoes from the grocery store were sprouting so I thought I would try cutting them and planting the eyes and sprouts in the container with my tomato plants. I now live in an apartment so I am limited in the space. I am delighted to see red potatoes popping up out of the top of the soil!
I am amazed at their size! I have no idea what may be developing below the surface. I guess I will find out when the tomatoes are finished producing and I pull the plants out. Simply put one potato in each pot. After the plants die back, I leave them in the pots until I need them.
But be sure to harvest them before a freeze or they will be ruined. Regarding seed potatoes, I used to buy them. Now I just use supermarket potatoes…. As long as they are not moldy, incredibly shriveled, dried up old potatoes will grow.
Regarding those compost bags some call them Smart Bags, you can make your own by taking landscaping cloth and sewing up the side to make a tube.
The wood seems like a better idea. I used plastic garbage cans med. Raise the bed as the plant grows. Add loses soil-basically mulch 3. Use late season plants. Dont use tires- could be toxic. Anyways just let them get about 6 to 8 inches tall and then cover with compost or straw and repeat.
When they start flowering i stop and let them finish making their taters. New to a town at the top of the coast of Maine, I decided to do it with truck tires and convinced my husband to get some for me.
Naturally all the potato farmers up there wondered what I was up to. Struggling we managed to get the first tire off, after that we just started toppling the stack. I harvested 5 potatoes, just 5!!! I even had a perforated pipe in the center for watering and aeration. I do think that was a good idea. Zero cost, lots of potatoes. Why must every blog or article on the Internet devolve into politicking? Politics are the duty of a responsible citizen. Apathy leads to fascism and slavery.
While politics may be the duty of citizens it does not need to be brought up in every discussion. Even easier to handle than soil, use straw! As the plants grow, add more straw. For harvesting, just push the straw aside, take what you want and put the straw back. No digging, no heavy soil to shift, and the straw beaks down over the winter to enrich your soil.
What i do not understand is if all you add is straw what is the potato plant going to FEED from? If there is not any dirt or compost and the straw is not going to be able to breakdown all that fast -does not the potato plant STARVE?? The plants use photosynthesis to make food, like most plants. Then you can add straw to encourage more potatoes. You can always spray with a foliar feed fertilizer, too, such as soluble kelp.
And water with compost tea every couple of weeks. The understanding I have, is that the roots stay at the bottom, with good soil, and straw or whatever it is, is just to provide a dark place where potatoes form.
It is still feeding on dirt and compost. You can also use pine straw to cover! You can also use it for mulch in your garden. Many of my neighbors in FL have pine trees and rake and throw the pine straw in the trash.
This way you can use things that would many would consider trash, and it makes your soil more acid for those plants that like acidity! I think I will try this in my poly tunnel.
We have three acres but this will allow for very early planting. Should get first new potatoes by mid Febuary. Much easier access to the potatoes and yams. Pantyhose stretch, you can cut with knife and then re-tie.
I am in Scotland and this sounds ideal for my small garden. I am definately going to try this. What variety for our climate. If not you will have straw growing everywhere and vigorously. The best sustitute for staw is Hay. Most hay is seedless when harvested. It has the same characteristics as straw for its use, breaks down at the same rate,is a great addition to compost and ammendments for your soil.
Plus in a vegetable garden it acts as a wonder mulch to help retain moisture, suppress weeds and helps deter some pests. Not to metion it looks good as well. I work at a state historic site and design and maintain the working kitchen garden and have been using hay for over 10 years.
You sterilize straw or grass trimmings, or lawn-grass cuttings, even leaves—by putting in a black garbage bag, tie it, leave it in the hot sun and any seed in the straw or grass will die, and then you can use it as compost for your potatoes or anything else without the danger of growing weeds in your garden. Any root crops do better in straw compost than in dirt, especially in hard clay or soil with poor drainage. I do the same, but the other way round. I use the spent straw from my coops to mulch with.
They say that you should not use straw for your chickens and hay is better. Only because straw is more tube-ish, and gives great hiding places to the bugs that are a nuisance to your chickens. Just some information I have run across. I use hay for my chickens. Here in Texas, the hay if full of grass and weed seeds. Straw is a by-product of raising grain such as oats and wheat.
The oat and wheat seeds have been removed. Eva, great advice except you are backwards. Hay has seed ie. I am not sure that pallets are a good idea. Many are soaked in chemical preservatives.
Years ago arsenic was the potion of choice but lord knows what is put on them in strange countries. A lot of them may be hardwood and Ok……………but then dont ever cut them indoors as the dust is hazardous. As I am already the prophet of doom could i also add its not a good idea to inhale smoke from burning pallets. Sometimes they have oil or other substances on them, so it is something to be careful with. But in general, pallets are safe to use. Actually they are treated.
All pallets are not treated. I work for a pallet company. Pallets being shipped from one country to another country must be treated or heated in a kiln. Most pallet companies I know heat treat the pallets in a kiln.
The reason for treating with a chemical or a kiln is to kill any bugs that might be hiding in the wood. This stops the transfer of bugs from one country to another. But pallets used exclusively within the US and not shipped outside the US do not need to be treated and are not treated because of the cost of the treatment.
I forgot to add, treated wood also has a green tint to it, so you can tell it apart from untreated. CCA, or, chromated copper arsenic, is the main culprit you all speak of. There are processes that do not use the heavier metals, and do not toxify. At one time, they were more expensive, but I think pricing has leveled out a bit.
Man, Its fun to finally use that knowledge. That seems like a lot of trouble, to dig out the potatoes from the bottom. Never any digging or hard work. Yes this works wonders. My Dad used to dig a trench then lay the potatoes in and just add straw, as the potatoes grew he added more straw. But very easy picking and no cleaning, they are already clean and seem to me to grow bigger. I have a raised vegetable garden bed. Once in awhile during the winter, the soil is turned over.
There are some leaves in the garden bed too. Wow, I had russet, red bliss, yukon gold potatoes and all from the peelings thrown into the vegetable garden bed. Bountiful supply in the spring. My great-grandparents never bought seed potatoes. They of course wanted to eat all the potatoes food was scarce in their day , so they would save potato eyes on the peelings to replant in the spring.
I always thought you had to have a chunk of potato with the eye, but not so. The peelings with eyes will regrow potatoes!
They also covered their potatoes lightly with soil and straw and just added more straw or lawn clippings. My father, raised in Mississippi, said his mother used to create a manure hotbed under a small area of the garden to start some vegetables early.
About a 4 foot thick bottom layer of hot manure, then add soil to plant on the top-most layer. The heat from the manure layer would warm up the planting soil enough to start earlier during cold weather. The older generations sure knew how to grow things! I grow organically and have always had bumper crops without fertilizing during the growing season by simply tilling in good organic fertilizer we have cow, chicken and pig manure mix on the farm in the fall or early spring.
Seems like the fall tilling of the manure works better—time to leach into the soil?? Thanks for the tips. The older generations are sages. I have a large back yard but everything I grow tends to spread everywhere and turns into a mess, so I like the confinement. The tire idea sounds excellent as well.
It sounds practical to me. And by the way — I could eat all pounds of potatoes. Good article, and good information — thank you. Even though regular pine boards get termites in them and rot rather fast, try not to use treated boards. The plants are supposed to be able to pull the chemicals out of the treated boards. Its better to replace rotten pine boards then to risk getting chemicals in your food. Have you ever tried the black landscape fabric? Lay it down put potato on top lay next fabric on top cut small hole on top of potato , put straw or hay on top water potatoes grow between fabrics.
Funny, there is a lot of cedar on the family land. Cedar is resistant to rot and insects. Good red cedar can last decades, Might want to try it.
Chestnut was good as well, but is almost extint, due to a disease. We have used the stainless steel tub from our defunct washer for growing potatoes for the past few years, although we have only planted one layer. I will be trying the suggestion of planting on the very bottom and then covering the plant as it grows. To stop the dirt from leaking out the holes, put a liner if weed barrier fabric around the inside of the tub. Hi, Thanks for the great info. I blogged about potatoes and included your link.
My customers love information and I love to bring it to them. This is something they could do on their own. Last year I build one of these potato wood bins as you called them. I went to my local builder store and had them cut the boards to the length that I needed and bought the screws.
I planted my potatoes and grew 40 lbs of them, the best tasting potatoes ever. Two things I noticed when I did not water them enough that layer had little to no potatoes, could estimate by my vacation time and where the soil had not been softened with compost that layer had few potatoes. I have had excellent potatoes all winter.
The funny part was I was gone and then got sick and forgot about picking them so after we had a major freeze here in Colorado I expected them to be mush but I needed to take my bin down so started digging them out and it turned out they had not been affected by the freeze at all. Excellent way to grow…how many different things. Just wanted to share this with others, I did not get my lbs but who cares and with paying more attention to them with regular watering and good soil who knows…I was thrilled for my first year it was GREAT.
Hardwood leaves, especially oak carry nematodes that will keep your crop on the smallish, disfigured side. A friend told me to buy a large bag of compost poke holes in the bottome for drainage and cut a slit on top and plant potatoes in the bag. To havest slice the side and pull out only what you need. This is the method I am going to use.
My cousin is a gardener and has been pyramid gardening. I am buying the garden soil.. Then cover that with hay. Compost would work too. I see no need for the box or container. I think potato plants are pretty. My mother use to grow sweet potato vines on her kitchen window sill. Place toothpicks closer to the bottom of the sweet potato as supports.
Then put in a glass container with enough water to cover the bottom third of the potato. It is grown for the foliage only and a very pretty vine. I did try planting some store potatoes once and they were a complete flop. If you save from your own potatoes each year you should only have to buy seed potatoes once.
I cut them in sections making sure each section had an eye or two. I had the best potatoes. Due to cold wet spring I was late getting to the garden and all the seed potatoes were sold out. Guy at the store suggested going to Whole Foods and getting small Organic potatoes as these supposedly are not treated with chemicals to retard sprouting.
They are in the ground in my box. How can I grow the same size potato tubers for minimmizing sorting needs. I do not see any post about actual yields. How accurate is the pound claim or even LB? Can anyone who has actually done a vertical potato garden with success say what variety of potato was used. I have read that these are definitely not good for vertical culture. Please, if you have actually have good success with vertical culture either wire cages, boxes, or pallets , could you post which variety you used?
My husband and I tried to grow potatoes in the boxes like above. It is about mid June and all of the potato plants died. We dug them all up and no potatoes at all. Can anyone tell us what happened? One inch left exposed is not enough to support a healthy plant. You were only overzealous.
Remember, the worst farmer is the one who doesnt try. Trying too hard is another issue. Youi just needed to let them grow a bit more, and cover a bit less.
I read the same thing. Plants still need sunlight….. My first effort failed because the spud had NOT been planted properly. TvI love this thread! If your potatoes turn green from the Sun they are poisonous!
I put grass clippings on. I had several levels of the wood added on. Straw would be be better. I agree with Kim. It sounds like they came off easily because the stem of the potato plant had rotted. Either too wet, which grass clippings really hold moisture, or possibly too hot as the clippings started to decompose. Ever reach into a pile of grass clippings and feel the heat, moisture and watch the steam rise up? This happened to one of my potato plants in a black container.
I overwatered it and then placed it where it was extremely sunny. It was smelly and rotten. Definitely the case of Bacterial Soft Rot. Car washes get their soap in plastic gallon drums. The soap is usually completely non-toxic and washes out completely. Trying it this year for a fall crop with Russets in a drum. My husband and I tried this method this year, growing the potatoes in wooden towers like this and building up as the plants grew.
To compare, we also put in some with the traditional mounded dirt method of growing. The traditional method of growing yielded a larger crop. Use a 5 gallon bucket with the bottom cut out.
Cut a vertical slit from the ridges down to the bottom. Put the bucket on a piece of plastic. Plant the first layer with six inches of soil. As the plant grows keep adding soil to cover about a third of the stem at a time. Let the plant grow to a foot over the soil when it gets to the top of the bucket. Depending on the variety the bottom will be about ready. The first harvest will give a good indication of how much time is needed for harvesting.
The growth rate varies widely with the variety. Pull up the bucket letting the soil slide down to expose some of the soil at the bottom layer. Tip the bucket and pick a few potatoes out to see how big they are. If the potatoes are not ready let them grow.
Remove all but a thin layer of soil from the plastic and tip the bucket upright. Add enough compost to make up the soil that was consumed and add it back into the top of the bucket. Repeat the process until the potatoes are ready. When the potatoes are ready pick out as many potatoes as will be consumed. Just keep adding more compost to the excess soil each time. Repeat the process as many times and as often as desired. Note that the sides of the buckets are slightly tapered.
Slitting the bucket makes it so the soil slides easily when you pick it up. This method allows for a continuous harvest without ever having to stop and start over, as long as there is sufficient light and water.
Only as many potatoes desired need to be harvested at a time. Storage problems are eliminated. Potatoes can be kept growing indoors in a window all year with enough artificial light to make about sixteen hours of combined natural and artificial light. The better the light the faster the yield but almost any light will do.
The duration is what is important. For more yield use more buckets. I always end up either screwing up and neglecting them or starting over with new varieties. We use a large trash can with the bottom cut out. Plant the seed potatoes…cover with soil and straw Some times I use grass clippings and as the potatoes grow tall- keep mulching it.
We use to do this with old tires stacking one on top of the other. Works well and much easier to harvest the potatoes. Put your starts on the SURFACE of the soil and pack the hay around the growing plants……the plants put out new stolons and potatoes into the hay……more hay, more potatoes…..
No digging, and your soil mulch is already in place. Has anyone ever tried this using vinyl fencing? We have a huge problem with termites, and I have left over fencing that I thought might work. What about just using plain old tomoato cages or a rolled piece of fencing held together with wires?
Maybe potatoes could still be easily harvest by reaching into the bottom as needed, you could still keep adding the layers as described. Just not sure it would hold enough moisture??? I had planned on using a barrel, now you guys have me thinking of all sorts of options. Maybe just use some 5 gallon buckets, without cutting out the bottoms, easy to dump out. Our local winery sets out boxes from all the grapes they use just for anyone, they are a lightweight wood, obviously must be OK for food, they held grapes, and they look moderatley nicer than tires to sit in the yard.
I have a lot of hay and stray from used bedding from goats and rabbits, between the hay and straw and the animal droppings I have HIGH hopes of bountiful harvest!!! So using straw around the outside of the plants up against the inside of the wire will probably work well.
Let me know how yours turns out? I use my husbands old racing tires for my potatoes. I start the potatos in the first tire, then add another tire and dirt as the plants grow. I also inherited his old tire holding rack so I put all the un-used tires on it for storage. This year I am using some of the tires to make mini raised beds in my larger garden. I have them spaced about a foot apart with metal stakes, in this area I plan on growing my tomatoes.
Doing this will raise the soil temp for my sun loving veggies, keep out weeds, roots from other plants such as my strawberrys and help with moisture. If you have a sawmill nearby, you can get cedar lumber for a low cost. I know I can buy it here for 50 cents per board foot. This is an excellent idea for people who have a limited amount of space to grow a garden.
I have had great success with this method of potato growing. I use recycled black plastic pots really big ones that I buy at OSH for a buck a piece. Then, when the potatoes are ready, I get my daughter to tip the pots over and find the potatoes. She does it with her friends and they have so much fun counting the potatoes, lining them up from biggest to smallest, and, of course, eating them!
A great project for kids and their grown-ups! I am using a tall Laundry hamper with landscaping fabric to block the soil from falling out!
This way the holes in the sides still let the light in! Hi all how about a complete organic way of growing potatoes …All you do is take straw lay it down one leaf at a time to make a row then set your seed taters on the leafs of straw then go back over them and cover with a leaf of straw or old hay even works….
I am trying straw bale gardening this year. I have the 4 bales placed in a square with the middle open. Thought I may try potatoes in the center. Does anyone have a list of what potatoes are good for this I have heard that some kinds are not very good at growing in a system like this? I made a potato tower this year for the first time. I used chicken-wire, straw and mulch.
I made an 18 inch diameter circle, used 3 stakes to stabilize it. Then layered the mulch and straw planting 6 potatoes eyes facing the outside. I planted 30 potatoes and it looks like most of them have grown. Not a very pretty thing but I cannot wait to have my own potatoes to eat. I simply took a piece of wire fencing and made a large circle with it.
I tried this technique for the first time this year, and I am not finding any potatoes. I did everything that I was told to do, but o potatoes. The plants are done flowering and starting to wilt. I like Mandy tried this for the first time and got 0 potatoes. Some on the ground but none up the stem, I just dug them today.
What did I do wrong? What the heck happened? I have nine stacks of tires with soil in only the top tire. I put a barrel lid in the top one. Growing seventeen different vegetables. All are doing great. Evidence shows some foods have many toxins from herbicides, pesticides, insecticides, etc. Do you hear of anybody having trouble from food grown in tires? I just started using gardenboxes last year and had overall good results.
My question is can the same method be applied to sweet potatoes? They last longer than the clear. Filled with peat moss and vermiculite. Got about a bushel of potatoes out of the 4 boxes. I could dig them out with my hands.
Just right for an 87 year old man. Going to try the above method next year. Some years ago, a radio call-in show horticulturalist advised putting old pine needles into the same hole with the seed potatoes when planting, to keep various plant fungi away. Worked pretty well for me, and helped adjust soil to increase acidity where I needed it. Would not advise using only pine needles. Also from my experience, although hay worked as well as straw for me in covering potatoes instead of hilling with soil as they grew, next year did I have weeds!
Grain straw a better option if you have a good, free, supply. Potatoes are not then as affected by soil borne diseases. We have used old tires the same way, and the plants grow, add another tire. Be sure to only water once when planted then wait. They can very easily rot with too much water. I give them a good drink then wait to see several leaves before another drink.
I have yet to see any method grow lbs of potatoes yet. I hope if someone gets it to work they post a video so we can all see it. Most pressure treated lumber now a days are much safer than then the old method. Have tried this in multiple bins and had good results in most, this is what I have learned so far.
Variety used makes all the difference with most maincrop varieties being the favored seeds to use for vertical growing because of their longer growing period. Using waste spuds or peelings from the kitchen will give a crop but unless you know what variety they are results will be unpredictable often only limited to bottom of bin. Two years ago, I ended up with very few undamaged potatoes red and russet varieties because the rodents had dug up under the rows and had eaten the potatoes during the growing season.
Many of the potatoes were completely hollowed out! In 35 years of gardening here in Idaho, I have never once had a problem like this with potatoes! We did have this happen to some carrots one year that we left to winter over in the ground. When we dug them in the spring, we discovered mice literally living inside of hollowed out carrots. The barnyard cats and our dogs had a great time chasing mice as we dug the carrots and stirred them up from their little carrot nests!
White potatoes set potatoes on the stems as they are covered with dirt. Sweet potatoes set sweet potatoes on the roots as they grow down into the ground. That is why traditionally, you plant white potatoes in a trench and fill in around the plants as they grow. You plant sweet potatoes in the top of a hill or long mound and they make babies on the roots as they grow downward; then you dig them up in the fall.
Any suggestions on keeping field mice out of the garden. Last year they destroyed my potatoes, watermelons and cantelopes. My husband and I tried growing potatoes in 3 layers of tires last year with poor results.
We started with 5 potatoes in the bottom tire, covered with soil. When the plants were about 8 inches high, added another tire and more soil. Another tire was added when the plants were 8 inches above the second tire. Then we watered and fertilized; there was an abundance of foliage so we were looking forward to a large crop of potatoes.
Unfortunately we got no more potatoes from the 5 than we would have from planting one potato.